Shawn Dollar has broken his neck while surfing off the Central California coast.
The surfer from Santa Cruz broke his neck in four places, incurred head trauma and a concussion. The safety team rescued him and he is now recovering in the hospital.
"I'm so thankful I'm alive and present today. Being surrounded by my loved ones through this time has been paramount for me. I'm so grateful for those who were there in my scariest and darkest hour and who acted on my behalf to get me to safety and reach the hospital in time," Dollar wrote.
"I'm thankful to learn that even with these severe injuries I will make a full recovery. They will be met with challenges but with my family's support and community encouragement I will be back in no time."
Shawn Dollar is a Titans of Mavericks competitor. The big wave surfing organization underlined that the "unfavorable, mixed conditions" put him "in a critical scenario that caused him to act accordingly to protect himself."
Waves were breaking in the 25-foot range, but details of the surfing accident are still vague and unclear. Shawn Dollar has had his name written in the Guinness World Records, and he is an XXL Big Wave Award winner.