Contrary to popular belief, nothing’s easy about the place. It’s hard to get to and extremely difficult to surf. It may look easy on video, but the conditions are gnarly, currents are strong, drops are heavy, and the water is cold. I had a moment’s notice before I jumped on a plane in order to catch this particular swell. And, boy, am I stoked I did. We got super lucky and scored two straight days of utter perfection, which is super rare.