There’s a simple reason why you don’t see everyone riding a twinnie at a hairy wave like Desert Point: it ain’t easy. A wave like this is difficult enough, even when you’re helping yourself out by adding some foam and a few inches to your board. But when someone does it, it’s done beautifully. Such was the case earlier this month when Derrick decided to take out a Mark Richards-inspired twin fin out at macking Deserts.
There are so many amazing things to take note of while watching this beautiful display of surfing, but one thing, to me, stood out above all else. There are a few moments during the video, particularly when he’s riding the tube, when the wave becomes so steep that there’s really only one fin in the water being utilized. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realize that this is very, very difficult and stupidly impressive, to say the very least. Ladies and gents: Derrick Disney.