Home is where the heart is. Especially so if your heart lies with surfing, like Santa Cruz local CJ Nelson’s does.
CJ’s an interesting guy with an interesting take on surfing and how it relates to life. “One of the reasons why surfing is a way of life for all of us is because it mirrors life so wonderfully,” he writes on his website, “Days of perfect glassy waves can be followed by days of blown out storm surf, and a lot of days with conditions somewhere between the extremes. Days that are pure fun, and others that challenge us to our limits. The correlation between surfing and life is clear and natural.”
Since life often requires CJ to leave home, coming back is always a good thing. “It’s great lo live a life on the road surfing all over the place,” he wrote, “but nothing beats coming home and riding the waves I grew up on with people I love.”