Derek Hynd is in the future. He’s not attached to what he’s “supposed” to do. He rides waves in his own way, on his own boards, and on his own time. He is, without a doubt, one of the greatest surfers of all-time.
It’s rare to find a person with such an inherent knowledge of the way a wave works. Hynd’s relationship with the ocean, its waves, and his craft of choice is something so far beyond what anyone else is doing right now, and the funny thing is, it’s also one of the most simple. He’s surfing for all the right reasons… and that’s a book we could all take a page out of.