You probably haven’t heard of Kerby Brown. He’s one of those West Aus surfers who does crazy things on crazier waves not for you, but for him. It’s a “because it was there” mentality. In circles of people who do those crazy things, Brown is well-known for being one of the craziest.
He routinely chucks himself over ledges most wouldn’t dream of chucking ourselves over. He stares into the abyss and laughs, and they say. Of course, as they also say, when one stares into the abyss, the abyss stares back. In this case, when it stares back, it busts eardrums and ruins knees.
Here he is talking about one session at The Right that ended in multiple injuries. So what makes a man like Kerby tick? Let him tell you.