This is a counter-intuitive drill that will help you spend more time actually riding a wave. So far we have fixed the nosedive, adjusted your hand placement, and corrected your surfing stance. By now, you know the basics of catching a wave and staying on it for more than five seconds. Now focus on controlling your speed while standing on your board (stalling), to spend even more time riding each wave.
Stalling on a wave is critical, because:
-If you put the weight too much on the back of your board, the wave will roll out under you (it will simply pass you by).
– If you put too much weight toward the front by leaning forward, you will be moving too fast and you will be pushed in front of the wave
Quick Analysis: Why controlling your speed is critical component for managing your progress
Typically people want to control their speed by leaning with their upper body forward or backward.
This is a bad idea. Using your upper body instead of your hip to shift weight will either force you to fall in the water belly forward or hinder your ability to turn.
How to Control Your Speed
These are all the ways that you can control the distribution of weight on your board:
1. Shifting your weight backward or forward using your hips. 2. Using your arm to reach forward/backward 3. Leaning forward/backward with the upper body 4. Shuffling your feet forward and backward.
Of these variations, the first option is the most effective (moving your hips like Beyonce). You can adjust your speed by simply shifting your weight on the board.
How to Practice This:
To drill this in, stand in a doorway and assume the correct surf position.
– Start with your weight balanced evenly between both feet – Spread out your arms nicely for more balance – Face chest forward. – Squeeze your knees closer together
Finally, start shifting your weight forward and backward until you reach the doorway.
Remember, to go faster you’ll shift your hip above the front heel (front knee touches the doorway).
To go slower, move your hip above the back heel (butt touches the doorway).
In your “traveling speed,” your weight is evenly distributed between the two legs.
You can practice this every time you pass your favorite doorway and think of surfing. You will get the hang of it pretty quick, eventually making it an instinctive move when you are surfing. Just remember Beyonce’s hips.
Using this simple drill, you will ride more waves and have more fun surfing. And that is always what matters because fun in surfing equals catching the most waves during your session.
Let me know if this helped you, or what you want me to cover next by emailing me at firstname.lastname@example.org