This is disgusting. No one should be able to surf a wave like this with so little emotion. No one should be able to sit behind the foam ball for so long with nothing even resembling nerves. No one should be able to drag both arms so hard, no one should be able to know a wave this well. But John John Florence does. And it’s disgusting. Disgustingly awesome.
It’s the 160th entry into O’Neill’s Wave of the Winter. How does one surf a better wave better than this?