"I just hit the reef with my head and I don't remember anything," says Jamie O'Brien in his video as he is escorted out of the water.
The Hawaiian may be one of the most experienced surfers in Pipeline in all types of conditions, but he has just passed very close to death in waves of 5 to 6 feet!
At that moment, Jamie can't even remember if he took a right or a left, because he was unconscious for 36 seconds after his fall. He also doesn't know if he hit his board or reef.
When he comes out of the water he just complains about having "dilated eyes" and finds that he has a large opening in his skull.
In his vlog, he thanks those who saved his life, including the one who made the floating suit that allowed him to come to the surface and avoid drowning.
O'Well still went through the hospital where it took 9 staples to glue back a large piece of scalp that was detached from his skull.
In the video below we can see the wave in question at 2m40, but we warn the sensitive souls that the end sequence is a little gory...
Don't worry about Jamie, though. Today everything is fine for him, he even went back to surfing 3 days later with a little aluminium tape around his head!
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